TVR Sagaris Pages by Graham Varley, Speed Six

The front three 1,2,3 are LAMBDA1, harness cable black/red/white/yellow (NS exhaust can)
back three cylinders4,5,6 LAMBDA2 harness cable black/red/white/blue (OS exhaust can).

A duff sensor will lead to over fuelling and soot on the relevant exhaust can.
If not sorted the overfuel may destroy the catalysts

On Lambda failure the ECU should over fuel by default to avoid engine damage from lean running and possible pinking/detonation.
If the No.36 circuit fuse has gone and the power steering is not working the Lambdas may not be either.

A factory bulletin was issued in December 2005 advising that 'all vehicles' built May to November 2005 had a lambda wiring issue, so check this out with a knowledgeable TVR specialist.

Fuelling Issues: I understand the submerged fuel pump internal connection hoses can degrade on early models and can give intermittent faults. The bolts that hold fuel pump head can come loose and leak causing fuel smell in the cabin if the access cover is not fully sealed. The baffle and pump in the fuel tank are on the right side so fast long right hand bends on low fuel (12-18litre) can cause hesitation/detonation. Fuel smells can also come from the fuel roll over valve.

Fuel pump; The fuel pump is located on the right hand side of the tank which is accessed under the boot carpet via a sealed access cover. The cover could be secured by self tapping screws through the body or fixed with M5 x 12 pan head screws to the bonded brass nut-inserts. The pump can be withdrawn through the access hole. The pump mounting flange is held to the fuel tank with hex screws with individual sealing collars for each screw and also a full area rubber gasket. to remove cut the tie wrap from the wiring loom before pulling the connector, then pull the pump carefully up being careful not to snag the internal hoses and float level. Check the pumps own filter and remove debris. With no fuel my sensor reads 1litre.

Fuel tank removal; Remove the majority of the fuel first, then rear diffuser and the exhausts. Remove the access cover, undo and remove the fixing pins for the fuel pump. Remove the boot hatch trim rail and nearside panel to reveal the fuel filler hose and undo. Remove the access cover and any sealant to allow the fuel tank to be lowered out. Hold the weight of the fuel tank, then carefully remove the M10 x 35 button head screws from the chassis bracket. Then take the weight and rotate the fuel tank front down and sideways to release the filler hose. That's the fuel tank out and ready to clean out the debris. Nice little signature! Thought it worthwhile to polish off the factory overspray back to the black gel coat before re-fitting the fuel tank. Also fitted the access cover with socket screws how it was really intended

Fuel rail; The spacers on the fuel rail are made of steel and transmit too much heat from the engine . I have re-made 1.5mm longer to suit the Sagaris injectors, insulating washers may help keep the rail temperature down.

The fuel injectors are identified as Blue Ring and generally a single orifice.

Air con & Heater fan; Heater-Fuse 28- 20Amp

Aircon is a bit hit and miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold on full.

I've done the following, with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others:-

ON POD 8 menu the flap zero is critical to whether the car cooks or not regardless if you have air-con or not!. and you should NOT get any heater hot air in the cabin when cold selected.

The air duct in the lower dash is for the cold only. The screen and footwell vents should only go hot when selected with or without air-con, but they will warm a little in traffic without the air-con on, but never get silly hot.

I spent loads of time on it but it works a dream now; to check this:-

I selected cold and maximum fan and adjusted the zero position until nearly all the airflow was to the lower dash vents only. My flap setting was 0, but now 26 (TVR factory setting was 16). Remember to save the settings and switch ignition off and check when switched on again.

It will take some time to set up but, if this doesn't work there is a chance the flap may have come loose off the motor, or the flap motor failed. It's in the gasketed box behind the air-con expansion valve/pipes. Usually get a Flap fault-126 warning if faulty, but I've not needed to get in there yet.

I removed the carpet on footwell underside; I ran the heater fan to max and found that there was a big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, I sealed it up with some expanding neoprene sponge, and also the back of the shelf under the radio and to its left from the footwell, improving the cold air flow to the drivers vent loads. Also known that ventilation connection hoses can be missing.

I further improved the heat insulation by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape between the upper dash and the lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and roll upwards and back)

I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD.

The transferred heat on the gear knob can be rectified by changing the aluminium gear stick to a Tufnell or similar like wise with the hand brake.

Heater settings ON POD 5 menu. When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors should be about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling from the loom on mine, you can find out which is which by un plugging.

I fitted the cold air sensor into the hole that was taped over, then screwed the hot one into the brass insert on the bulkhead. I think they had problems with them at the factory so may not have fitted them, but when you do fit them and the cars up to temperature you may get a fault code 137 when it gets too hot; but this is fixed with correct flap zero setup.

The ambient air temp is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter/inner wing, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer; and move to the other side of the splitter into the free air flow to the brakes.

With the blue lamp on the aircon (CL) clutch is operated you should here it click and read 'on' on the POD status screen; The aircon pump clutch supply is connected to the red wire you can just see in the pic below, Its fuse no.28 20Amp; The red wire connects to the loom white wire (terminal M) on the small round plug behind the airbox that goes through to the dash. The connection by the aircon pump is only a bullet/crimp and can fail easily; mine had been cut under a tie-wrap in the loom.
There should be a supply on the white loom wire to the connector when aircon selected if not see below

Thro POD 5. menu.
Fan is 0-100% dependant where knob is

Flap is 0-100%dependant where knob is (nothing to do with the zero in POD 8 menu).

CL= Clutch 'off' - air con pump signal off, should change as soon as you press to get blue lamp. If this fuses check the wiring to the clutch as known to fail due to wire insulation getting chaffed by the back of the pump as the wire goes through the unused mounting eye.

PR= 'on'- system pressure charged up/healthy and is reliant on the signal from the trinary switch (three set points HP28 MP17 LP2) on right hand side by VIN plate on photo. If connector loose/pulled off and not seeing the signal, will give the reading PR=off. and run the fans radiator continuously.

IC= Thermostat- should always be 'on'
This has a copper capillary wire sitting in the footwell above the battery box top. Not sure what this does but mine is set to maximum, be careful with the capillary wire. I guess you could just link this out if it failed. If switched off or has no continuity this cuts the supply to the aircon pump clutch.

Refrigerant needed approx 725g-800g and 60cc of Pag46 lube oil

Aircon Expansion valve is here, look like a bit of hammer rash was required to make it seat!?! the drain is routed through the battery box.

The Sagaris has a dividing panel on the n/s to separate the hot air from the radiator that the early T350 and Tam's don't, seems very easy to replicate and fit. The heater fan air intake is under the light and simply goes between the inner and outer wing to the heater intake; so if the panels not there it brings in hot air from the rads. Keep the intake clear of flies too.

As a temporary measure if the dividing panel is not fitted and flap zero not set up; and the dash & footwell vents are leaking hot air when cold is selected or the vent slats are dislodged slide to one side to take spring leg out, take out and press oval to get slats back in and working. (cover with cling film from the back).

Heater Controller
Located on the underside of the passenger footwell, this may overheat (for the fan and flap) and reduce the cold air flow during long journeys. The connection plug is known to be undersized, overheat and the output capacitor can blow
In an attempt to rectify to keep the controller cool I have fitted mine behind the glove box in the cold air section, but still not certain this is a fix, but certainly had no issues since relocation.