TVR Sagaris Pages- Tuscan Tamora T350- Speed Six Engine
This is a data collection page for the TVR Sagaris by Graham Varley.
It includes help on maintenance and fault finding for the TVR Sagaris, T350 and Tamora, and
is useful for the Tuscan and Speed Six Cerbera .
This is not a commercial venture and all information is
provided without liability.
I have a passion for refining things and have
done the work to my car listed on this page and thought
it worth while documenting.
All photos are of my car unless noted otherwise. Any contributions, advice on errors, credits, and
additional information is appreciated.
All my servicing work is done to a meticulously high
standard by STR8-SIX. I consider anything I do myself as additional work
and never miss any essential dealer servicing.
Hand fettled and fussed with by myself, blueprinted and built by
Jason at STR8-SIX, 4.3litre
I complied the '
Speed Six Sagaris
Workshop Manual and Parts List' with 450 pages also now Know as the
'Speed Six Bible'
Professional Quality Publication- Sorry now Sold out
- try ebay or Pistonheads
SAGARIS PAGES HELP
Click to view the picture links in
blue. Additional info is on the photos if you mouse
Photos bordered in blue
click to enlarge
The Purple links
are to places in this page
CONTENTS OF THIS WEB
- Rattles; The
bonnet and service bonnet on later cars without the
rubber are generally OK, just add a few bits of adhesive
backed neoprene sponge on the contact points to stop any
rattles and lateral movement. Tighten all the louver bolts
on the bonnet and fit extra washers if required to firm up
the louvers. The later cars also have plastic
fitted to the main bonnet to bush down the size; they can
fall out and the service bonnet rattles, I have made some tighter
fitting replacements. On some cars the back two pins
on the service bonnet are short and don't engage enough,
they should be a good 16mm or long so, if not replace
/modify. If the main bonnet comes undone on its
quarter turn fasteners
you can file a
small groove on the underside to stop the locking pin
turning or simply wrap with a bit of duct tape.
- The tailgate lock has a lobe on it that can be adjusted to pull down the
glass to stop the rattles, also sleeve with a bit of pvc
tube. The hinges at the top can also rattle loose , the
black covers have the capscrew that holds them like the one
on the body. The foam spare tyre can rattle up & down in the
compartment; use some Velcro or cloth on it to stop the
rattles. Make sure the load cover tonneaux
fasters are screwed home so not to rattle against the rear
- Knocking from the front suspension can be the anti roll
bar drop links, or the ball joints. They are relatively
cheap to replace by a main dealer.
- Luggage Cover;
removal is a bit of a pain, if
you do this think about removing the centre console at the
same time if you need to do any work like the reverse
switch, gear stick heat-brake etc.
Wheel arch & sill black stuff
- The original paint system is not so good, it's white spirit based,
so if you try to clean off any tar on the sills the whole lot
will rub off. In the wheel arches the finish is similar hand
bush painted, primed and black sprayed; It is likely that the
paint falls off in big sheets. To make it smooth and easy to
clean: Remove all access covers. Clean entire area of loose
paint and clean using white spirit; carefully mask body
paintwork, using tetroseal or similar black under body seal
apply very light coats to build thickness until smooth finish( may
take a few days to get it harden off) then with a satin/gloss
black paint over. This gives a great finish, but the result is
in the preparation. It is really good on the rear
diffuser/apron; it stops stones getting stuck in the
fibreglass and you can clean it with a sponge easily. The rear
arch above the exhaust looks great too without stone chips!
- Sills wipe
off paint with white spirit, mask off and satin black spray
paint chassis side only if you want. Clean and dry the sill, then and
stick on black gloss coach lining tape 20mm wide for a sharp
finish. Do the same between the splitters to protect
- Brakes; Front pad change
is easy as long as you have a drift tool to push out the
pad securing pins.
AP Racing of Coventry, the front Callipers are
TVR logo'd and a
A full detail
drawing of the calliper is here. Disc 322mm dia x 30mm (28mm min). Standard factory AP pad
compound is Ferrodo3432F; can be ferrodo FRP3083 in
DS2500 road compound, which a
pad drawing is
here, available from
Alternatively For Race use only Mintex F4R
compound (2207F4R16.00) available from
Hexham Horseless Carriages
- Rear Callipers; Are the same Griff
thro-Sagaris using the Ford cosworth sierra pads. You need
piston wind back
tool to make the job easy; and only need to remove one
bolt and swivel the calliper to remove the pads; use some
copper slip on
the back faces to stop them squealing. The Ford pads are
OK fo rroad use but will only last one trackday. Standard Ferrodo
compound FER3432F, TVR part no.J0447- Full part
number CP3915-16-3432F , DS2500 compound is also an
- Disc's ; to keep them looking good and stop
rusty water getting on the wheels just after you cleaned
the car ; try
sand blasting down
the edge to the fins and the centre and not the
braking surface area, then give a few coats of spray paint
with a 'UHT sperex satin black' or PTFE paint as used on
make sure you use copper slip when re-fitting the
disc's to the hub.
- Brake/clutch fluid; Standard DOT4
- Jacking points I do same
as my dealer and jack on the 4 corner chassis/body tub
screws with a thrust pad fitted to distribute the load
Painting My chassis is an off
white/grey and had heavy overspray in the
wheel arches and
cleaned this back using cutting polish etc. To touch up
stone chips I matched the colour using 'smoothrite' ,mixing
the colour to the correct shade, grey with white.
(about 15% white on mine) But grey is very close
so just a dab of white is needed. I also used 40mm white
coach lining tape to put on the tubes in front and behind
the wheels to stop stone chips to the chassis rails,
replacing it when worn. In Winter 2009 I decided to replace
all the suspension bushes as most appeared torn. I ended up
re-welding all of the suspension fabrications and finish
with a high specification zinc power coat and finish colour
RAL7038, which I understand was one of the colours(they used
many) used by TVR.
- Clutch; The tension on the
or the butterfly springs seemed to reduce at about 3-4,000 miles on mine, and drag
experienced when changing through the box and especially to
reverse, even when selecting 4th prior. The
slave cylinder also leaked at 2k miles. After this then
1st and 2nd start to get difficult followed by 3rd, then its
time to rectify before it lets you down. I chose to sort the
lot out all in one go rather than re-visit; to an improved
after market high spec assembly complete with a
lightweight slave from
Clevor-Trevor. Once the
gearbox was out, I found that the
was pretty much without wear, but found signs of heat
burnishing on the
flywheel and clutch which were lapped back. The
slave bearing was
running too freely, dry and noisy. On examination the
clutch fingers were
intact but heavily worn and the
yolke/fork was damaged
internally, the butterfly springs had worn into the cast
flywheel fitted by TVR resulting in insufficient movement.
The replacement diaphragm spring is great with extra contact
area especially on the
raceproved clutch fingers which are also induction
hardened to stop future wear. My view it is unlikely that
the clutch plate has failed, but the diaphragm spring,
and thrust bearing have been insufficient in design. It
appears recently, since july 2008 that the original AP racing clutches
have had the issues resolved and are again more reliable.
I have had failures on the reconditioned race proved
clutches and would not recommend the reconditioned ones unless
the posts and star washers are replaced with new, as there are
prone to bursting off the pillars and cause immediate
- Coolant hoses;
the coolant hose from the centre round alum swirl pot to the
o/s steel pipe that goes to radiator can wear through on
the power steering hose connector. Check all the hoses for
interfering with each other around here, and if the oil
reservoir does not sit in its carrier. ACT Products have
made a modified Silicon hose set for me that no longer
interfere. The expansion
tank cap is from VW Golf Mk1/2, and system runs at approx
- Fan Temperature cut in;
I found the key to this is make sure the engine has no air in
the system; the area around the Water temp sensor at the back
of the engine behind the airbox. To
efficiently fill the radiator system ideally be purged filled
from the bled points, or the car needs to be jacked up
at the front to get all the air out so the ECU water temp sensor
at the back of the engine (on the left from airbox side) for
the ECU to work correctly. There are two lower bleeds
either side of the
radiator inlet /outlet.
- To check the fan works and the wiring OK unplug the sensor
and both fans will run by default at any temperature with the
Offside fan should cut in first at about 91-92degC.
nearside at about 96-98degC.(TVR Power have an alternative
EPROM that reduces this to 88degC)
- To over-ride the standard fan settings you can wire a
switch circuit into the the
fuse panel relays
for LH & RH fans
- The dash POD menu temperature is not always the
same/accurate as it comes from the other sensor at the front
of engine and is prone to air locks and unstable POD readings.
- The fans run by default if there is a problem with the ECU
sensor or the aircon trinary switch.
Final Drive Differential; T5 Borg Warner/Tremec
Gearbox Fluid 1.4 litre ATFQ3;
Diff with Hydratrak Fluid 1.7
- Three different diff ratios.
- 3.46:1- fitted to most cars; some people report that its
too higher geared with this one if fitted with a CR box.
- 3.73:1 fitted to press cars and some late 06 cars with
DANA Hydratrak TVR Part No.R0662 from Dana Spicer Australia
PTY Ltd (mine has this with standard box and I am
pleased with performance)
- 3.9:1- fitted to a few with close ratio gearbox, (with a
standard box may give the engine an early
retirement if you are rev happy!)
- The Hydratrack Final drive diff with GKN/BTR seems fairly good.
- Ratio vs speed table. Click the table to see the
tables I have pre-populated with SagarisT350 Tamora Tuscan
- Hot Gear Stick ;
Heat Brake; To remove the gear stick to replace
with a none heat conducting one follow the
reverse switch procedure
first. Then carefully undo the allen key screw on the rear
face, the pull and rotate back and forth to pull the stick
complete with rubber mounting
away from the gear
box, be careful not to loose the rubber spacer fitted
on top of the gearbox remote stub within. Once the gear
stick is out it can be removed by holding the
socket screw on the underside and screwing the stick
off the rubber.
Gearbox stub shaft is here. To fit the new gear stick,
try it first to see that it lines up correctly with the
reverse light striker,
with a loctite stud lock
before re fitting. Make sure the
reverse light switch works correctly before
putting the gaiter back on.
Fuse and relay
control fuse and relay panel is located on the
underside of the drivers foot well.
Additional larger fuses are also on the
wiring to the
battery and alternator, and a loom mounted
relay for the
power steering. The owners handbook does not fully
detail what all the fuses are for. the
extract from the manual is here:-
Alternator not charging
is no dash pod warning, so its a good idea to customise
your display to show the battery charge level, if it
drops below 11.9volts you have about 15miles range without
lights and air-con until it stops at 8volts. If you are
aware that this is the case and you need to drive the car
to get to a garage; remove the
power steering relay or fuse 36, which will reduce the
drain on the battery. The fuse is 100 amp strip type and under the
air box on top of the starter motor, but worth
changing it to 120Amp if it fails.
Main fuse in
passenger foot well
is 80 amp
strip fuse behind the
panel, its the black plastic rectangular fuse holder with
black tape around it. The battery is an '036 round post'
on mine (with the +ve to the left of the car) and can be charged from underneath the car
through the Anderson plug. When replacing the battery
make sure you attach the positive first to avoid damaging
the ECU. I've fitted a charging lead from the battery
terminals into the passenger footwell for easy use of an
airflow charger, which I use if the cars not moving for
3-4 weeks. I had a set of 25mm
heavy duty charging
leads made with the anderson plug fitted. You can get
Steve Heath ready made up.
Battery box view
Front Headlamp -Inner Wheel arch access
indicator & nose loom
connection. These are made from black gel coat fibre
glass and fitted with sealant then screwed in position and
under sealed over. I have removed all the sealant added
extra fixing screws and fitted with
neoprene sponge seal, making a good seal and easy for
future maintenance and a luvelly looking wheel arch with
stainless screws of course!
I cleaned mine to look like this.
Brake & reverse
If the brake lights are not working and the reverse light
is, its likely to be the switch on the pedal box unless
both bulbs have fused. Check and replace the fuse, then
try the brake lights first and keep them on for a while,
if this is OK select reverse gear, if the fuse blows and
then the brake lights don't work the
reverse switch is faulty.
To change the brake/rear indicator bulbs; remove
the two screws on the top of the
that hold the luggage cover, and the securing
screws under the
carpet to manipulate the trim rail off, peel the
carpet back and the bulb holders are there. The reverse
and fog light are accessed via the tyre inflator
stowage compartment and made by Hella.
Reverse switch (TVR
Part) removal or adjustment is a big job; you get at it
from the top. Ideally take the
boot luggage cover/roller
by removing the
four nuts with large washers on horizontal bit forward of
rear wheel arch. Alternatively the console can be
manipulated forward and sprung out with a bit of force.
First remove the gear knob
by turning the ferrule clockwise with
rubber oil filter or jam jar lid removal strap tool, undo 19mm lock
nut clockwise to
remove gear knob. Remove the
hand brake lever
grip, sliding the leather back, use an allen key and
slide off. Loosen the
two screws at the front. (manipulate forward or take the
roller blind off as above ).
Lift up to reveal the
sub-console, remove the three 10mm nuts underneath
wrestle to get the console off selecting appropriate gear
and handbrake position. Move the mirror ECU (part
no.ME0846), the splice relay and the alarm sensors to one
side, then remove the
gaiter cover 6 screws, then the glued down gear
stick gaiter to reveal the switch, then a use
22mm spanner to remove the switch. Careful not to
damage the loom wires to the switch.
tightness of the gear stick
while your there with an allen key (screw is on rear
face) as they can come loose, and affect the reverse light
correct operation. You might need to rotate the gear stick
to get the new switch operating, but try it a few times
making sure it only works in reverse and not 5th as well.
To reassemble you will need some loctite PS 598 or similar
to reseal to gaiter to the body, and a bit of aluminium
foil tape is useful. If that's all too much you can
disconnect the switch, by flicking the connector off from
under the car, at least you will have the brake lights.
Check the boot to the gearbox is OK and without tears
whilst its all apart; and consider making a heat sink
barrier for the gearstick and insulate the gaiter
with some foil fire blanket to reduce cockpit heat.
I have also insulated
the gearbox/prop tunnel
to stop heat transfer to the cabin whilst changing the
and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick out of a
mat used for soldering.
If you've got the gearbox out the
looks like this, but it cannot be set it up from
Main & Dip H7 Hella;
via wheel arch underside. Remove wheel for access. O/S
possible access via service main bonnet to adjust
alignment ,but for
bulb change go
wheel arch access
the O/S is accessed via
the access panel.
If lights flickering could be main fuse
on way out.
The heater switch
is here. The
light switch is here.
and door control is here.
Speedo Sensor Here we
Speedo Sensor- Adjustment/Removal/replacement (sag v
similar all T cars)
Part no. M1889
If replacement required use a dealer as they will have it
done in a jiffy
To gain access to the Speedo Sensor the car ideally needs
to be on a ramp. (jack possibly)
Remove the left NS rear wheel. to see the sensor
The sensor can be
seen at the right of the drive shaft, horizontal to
the toothed diff output.
View from underneath
the car, (exhausts removed on photo)
Clean with WD40 set to 1mm gap or less
The sensor is best left, complete on the bracket if
View from rear
Alternatively, remove locknuts, follow the blue cable
through to the rear inner wheel arch
where it enters the
The hatch trim
top rail and then
the left NS trim panel needs to be removed.
Unplug in the inner
wheel arch and prise out the wires and sheath from the
Pull the new sensor wire through, without cutting back
Remake the connector and re fit the sensor and bracket.
Alternatively cut off at 200mm long from plug then cut
back new by 200mm and join with soldered heatshrink joint
or sealed connector block.
Check with the ignition on the speedo needle reads zero.
If the needle requires adjustment, select factory settings
on POD menu 8; select the mph zero and adjust up or down
until the needle is set and save the changes.
Fault Finding: Most
electrical faults , not working are due to bad connections
in the plugs or to the chassis. There are few earth
points, one on right side front by the engine mount,
chassis to engine, passenger footwell, battery box, then
the main one if the lights flicker after checking the 80 &
100amp fuse is the chassis ground at right front just
below the steel radiator pipe. Remove these wire wool
clean and assemble with a contact grease.
Following an unsolved
oil temp sensor fault,
in the process of rectifying, recorded the wire colours etc which is in
harness/looms are manufactured by
Associated Bonded Cables Ltd. There are several
sections, some plug/socket on the bulkheads.
Main Engine Bulkhead Plug all the wire ID's are in the
Small auxiliary plug on the engine bulkhead- Only
connects the Lambdas on the Sagaris and can foul with the
Nose wiring Loom; The
loom for the front
of the car part no M1798 comes through a plug
connection at the
bulkhead wall in the footwell accessed through the
O/S inner wheel arch access panel. The loom has the
connector for front fog lights which is fully operational
and taped up, their is also on the o/s light side a
permanent live supply taped back to the loom. My loom had worn through where
the it rests on the fibre glass inner wheel arch; I've
since repaired it and covered with a plastic armour sheath
to stop abrasion.
The push buttons can some times stick; you can get at the
if you take the glove box out. The drivers side is
more difficult as the
stereo housing needs to come out then,
undo three small nylocs at the back
and the remove the
- Doors; The door
is from the Ford transit.
The micro-switch that puts the
window up is inside the pillar lock mechanism. I think this
works with a window position sensor/encoder.
If the micro switch is set too far to the door edge the
windows can come up before the door has closed. To
remove/check you need to unscrew the 3 very small screws that
hold the chromed cover on. Once the cover is off you can
remove the lock mechanism via the two capscrews.
Chances are the micro-switch lever has been dislodged or
fallen off, be careful as you loosen the switch that it
doesn't fall down inside the body. It's possible that they are
rusted. Think they are a 'Burgess' item.
There is a wiring loom connector behind the door card, If
they get a load of water in over a period of time the door
release can open on its own!
To remove the door card; open the door and you will see
three clear plastic plugs on the door underside, carefully
remove them (get some replacements before you start) 10mm
Door hinges tighten
capscrew behind carpet top two on photo, its fairly
easy once you have found the capscrews, then if you need
shims the hinges stay put and slide in between. Check the top
hinge bolt in the door jam with a 17mm spanner.
replacement just follow the
above air box removal procedure.
Use a coopers Z501.
checked after stopping the
engine when hot. Do not over fill when cold to maximum;
this is likely to blow oil into the air box. Approx 1
litre between Max & Min,
Oil type can vary but fully synthetic Shell or Carlube
5w-40 seems best all-round. I use 5w-40, which
is great. This is my method of checking before taking
the car out when COLD; with car on dead flat surface when
the oil is just on the stick or just over the MIN
this gives approx 3/4 of MAX. My way to check HOT
level remove bonnet with rag ready switch off engine and
dip. High level filling can force the oil out into the air
box when trackdaying
Oil Pressure When I first had delivery of
my car and when very hot, the oil warning would come on
down at 4 psi at idle. There is various theory's on this
but I sorted mine by having a more healthy engine
idle when hot of 900-950rpm(the car should idle from cold
on its own). Loads of factors on this one like oil
viscosity vs temperature etc. With fresh Mobil 1
5W/40 mine runs on idle ;- 20deg 65 psi , 30deg 50psi,
40degC 35psi, 65degC 25psi.The help increase the
life of the engine from frequent cold starts I have have
a tube heater that I push under the car which is
on a timer when the cars being used, and purge oil into
the engine after lay-up through the oil sensor hose. For
normal use semi-syn 5-40 is now considered the best
Remove the air box
by undoing the two allen head bolts on the carburettors
and three toggles, the two on the o/s and one on the
hidden between the
box and inlet port. Cable ties maybe
fitted to the o/s toggles to stop them springing
Take the oil tank breather hose and small bore vacuum hose
off the front top, and the air temp sensor cable off the
box, then manipulate forward, remove the small bore pipe
at the back of the box then lift out, then remove the
filter. To remove the bottom half of the air box,
undo the front bolt and two rear ones and lift out. It
worth fitting some larger section viton BS0545-30 'O'
rings to the throttle bodies to get a better fit with the
air box and stop the engine getting blown with breather
The alternator main fuse is in a black plastic rectangular
fuse holder (with a cable tie wrap around it) on the
red cable between the
starter motor and the alternator.
After replacing the 100amp strip fuse and
charging/starting making sure the the battery is charging
on the the display and check the lights do not draw the power
before putting the box back on. A warning ' EFI fault 4'
will appear on the display: this is because the air temp
sensor is not connected and will not re-appear once
This is not a fix for
a lack of a service. It is just an interim measure , and
is no substitute for a diagnostic reset. If the car has
just been serviced it should always idle from cold no
problem, but can reduce after 1000 miles. Best thing is
get the diagnostics reset between services.
Adjust at centre
between 3 & 4 under
the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the
idle screw with a
locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the
increase in idle revs and see the correct one for
adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes
and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With
engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start
engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to
750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot,
tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between
service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
Rev limiter- lamps are
factory set but can be adjusted through POD settings menu
2. There seems to be differing factory physical hard limiter
settings from 6800 to 7800rpm. When cold
below 40deg C the red change lamps will come in at
4000rpm, but also will if the oil temp sensor is U/S or
the wiring loom is damaged.
TVR part; replacement;
follow the above air box removal procedure , then remove
the R clip and pin from the cable end, remove the clevis
and undo the locknuts to with draw from bracket. Inside on
the pedal box remove the aluminium cover screws, keeping
the locknuts on the clutch and throttle pedal in place.
Rotate the knuckle to release the cable & spring. Re-fit
the pedal end first. Bend the
tab that holds
the cable at the pedal end up by about 3mm to stop the
Remove the the three capscrews from the inset cover,
remove the sealant ; clean up as you go, then remove the
sparkplugs and then the camshaft cover. Blank the
spark plug holes so nothing can be dropped into the
bore. Ensure you also blank the oil way on the exhaust
side at the end of the cam at the back of the engine to
stop any bits or shims dropping into the engine.
- Cam inset cover To access the plugs and leads
- Use black loctite RTV sealant
loctite 598 to re seal.
- Cam Cover- Remove to access the cams and top
of timing chain, but engine out to remove chains
- Coil Plugs & leads;
Coil pack is from the
V6 Vauxhall senator- and is located above the starter motor and under
the airbox; the markings on the coil
pack do not correspond directly with the leads (6 and 4 reversed ). Failure of the coil pack can cause the car to
hesitate under load/harder acceleration. Looking at inlet side the
lead connection layout is like this.
- 1 3 5
- 6 4 2
- Engine mounts; These do
fracture frequently and should be checked at service
intervals, there are cheap and dealer will take max 1 hour but
DIY is 5-6 hours. Don't leave them too long as the
engine tilts over and pulls the prop engagement out of the
gearbox , twists the diff mounts.
Cats have a 129.5mm dia front pipe mating flange
with alternatives to the rear and can be 2.125" , 2.25"n/
cat melted on
mine, I wasn't keen but fitted de-cat pipes to get
the car back on the road and found a possible slight
torque increase. Watch the noise levels mine was 100dB (A)
@4500rpm. removing the cats increased it to 105+dbA .I have
the smaller pipes so it was not as loud as if the 2.25"
are fitted. Removing
the back box alone will give about 112dbA instant trackday fail. The exhaust can be cleaned using an
acid based welders pickle paste to clean all the heat
- Along with ACT and JP exhausts I developed a
dual purpose can 5 1/2"
OD with shark nose end fully packed can, but also had
it sleeved for maximum performance. An
insert tail end
was also manufactured to bring it down below 95dBA
- Exhaust removal;
Remove rear diffuser, and strengthening
plates from chassis, best to keep in one piece to
front of cats.
Parts removed and the
- The front three cylinders 1,2 ,3 go to the NS,
the back three 4,5,6 to the OS exhaust, they don't share
any sections, until they go into the standard back box
where they join. Some after market box boxes can have a
dividing panel making them totally separate.
- The exhaust cans should be solid in the back box if
waggled, if not; use a 10mm ring spanner reach under the
can between the diffuser; loosen and push the can back
home, then to tighten the clamp so there is no movement at
If the whole lot moves including the back box and the
other can, its likely the weld on the centre mount will
have fractured. You can re-weld but make sure its
preheated when its done or it will fracture again. The
standard rubber mounts seem to be OK
- Lambda Sensors; 4 wire
The front three 1,2,3 are LAMBDA1, harness cable
black/red/white/yellow (NS exhaust can)
back three cylinders4,5,6 LAMBDA2 harness cable
black/red/white/blue (OS exhaust can).
A duff sensor will lead to over fuelling and soot on the
relevant exhaust can.
If not sorted the overfuel may destroy the catalysts
Lambda failure the ECU should over fuel by default to avoid
engine damage from lean running and possible
If the No.36 circuit fuse has gone and the power steering is
not working the Lambdas may not be either.
bulletin was issued in December 2005 advising that 'all
vehicles' built May to November 2005 had a lambda wiring
issue, so check this out with a knowledgeable TVR
I understand the submerged fuel pump internal connection
hoses can degrade on early models and can give
intermittent faults. The bolts that hold fuel pump head can
come loose and leak causing fuel smell in the cabin if the
access cover is not fully sealed. The baffle and pump in the
fuel tank are on the right side so fast long right
hand bends on low fuel (12-18litre) can cause
hesitation/detonation. Fuel smells can also come from the
fuel roll over valve.
Fuel pump; The
fuel pump is located on the right hand side of the tank
which is accessed under the boot carpet via
a sealed access cover.
The cover could be secured by
self tapping screws
through the body or fixed with M5 x 12 pan head screws
to the bonded brass nut-inserts. The pump can be withdrawn
through the access hole. The pump mounting flange is held to
the fuel tank with hex screws with individual sealing
collars for each screw and also a full area rubber gasket.
to remove cut the tie wrap from the wiring loom before
pulling the connector, then pull the pump carefully up being
careful not to snag the internal hoses and float level.
Check the pumps
own filter and remove debris. With no fuel my sensor
Fuel tank removal;
Remove the majority of the fuel first, then
rear diffuser and the exhausts. Remove the access cover,
undo and remove the fixing pins for the fuel pump. Remove
the boot hatch trim rail and nearside panel to reveal the
fuel filler hose
and undo. Remove the access cover and any sealant to allow
the fuel tank to be lowered out. Hold the
weight of the fuel
tank, then carefully remove the M10 x 35 button
head screws from the chassis bracket. Then take the weight
and rotate the fuel tank front down and sideways
to release the
filler hose. That's the
fuel tank out and
ready to clean out the debris. Nice little
Thought it worthwhile to polish off the
factory overspray back to the black gel coat before
re-fitting the fuel tank. Also fitted the
access cover with
socket screws how it was really intended
Fuel rail; The spacers on the fuel rail are made
of steel and transmit too much heat from the engine . I have re-made
1.5mm longer to suit the Sagaris injectors, insulating
washers may help keep the rail
The fuel injectors are
identified as Blue Ring and generally a single orifice.
Air con & Heater fan;
Heater-Fuse 28- 20Amp
Aircon is a bit hit and
miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold on
I've done the following, with the Sagaris, can't be sure
it'll work for others:-
ON POD 8 menu the flap zero
is critical to whether the car cooks or not regardless
if you have air-con or not!. and you should NOT get
any heater hot air in the cabin when cold selected.
The air duct in the lower dash is for the cold only. The
screen and footwell vents should only go hot when
selected with or without air-con, but they will warm a
little in traffic without the air-con on, but never get
I spent loads of time on it but it
works a dream now; to check this:-
I selected cold and maximum fan and adjusted the zero
position until nearly all the airflow was to the lower
dash vents only. My flap setting was 0, but now 26 (TVR
factory setting was 16). Remember to save the settings
and switch ignition off and check when switched on
It will take some time to set up but, if this doesn't
work there is a chance the flap may have come loose off
the motor, or the flap motor failed. It's in the
gasketed box behind the air-con expansion valve/pipes.
Usually get a Flap fault-126 warning if faulty, but I've
not needed to get in there yet.
I removed the carpet on footwell
underside; I ran the heater fan to max and found that
there was a
big gap between the
bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, I
sealed it up with some expanding neoprene sponge, and
also the back of the shelf under the radio and to its
left from the footwell, improving the cold air flow to
the drivers vent loads. Also known that ventilation
connection hoses can be missing.
I further improved the heat
insulation by taking out
the glove box
and sealing it better and also creating a barrier
with aluminium foil tape between the upper dash and the
lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms
up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and
roll upwards and back)
I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat
soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and
made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged
the hot air leaks that come
from behind the POD.
The transferred heat on the gear knob can be
rectified by changing the aluminium gear stick
to a Tufnell or similar like wise with the hand
Heater settings ON POD 5
menu. When cold and the engine and aircon is not running
all the sensors should be about the same temperature;
The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling from the
loom on mine, you can find out which is which by un
I fitted the cold air sensor into the hole that was
taped over, then screwed the hot one into the brass
insert on the bulkhead. I think they had problems with
them at the factory so may not have fitted them, but
when you do fit them and the cars up to temperature you
may get a fault code 137 when it gets too hot; but this
is fixed with correct flap zero setup.
The ambient air temp is the one on the o/s of the rad
that pokes through to the splitter/inner wing, and gets
silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind
chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather
than steel) and a fibre insulating washer; and move to
the other side of the splitter into the free air flow to
With the blue lamp on the aircon (CL) clutch is operated
you should here it click and read 'on' on the POD status
screen; The aircon pump clutch supply is connected to
the red wire you can just see in the pic below, Its fuse
no.28 20Amp; The
red wire connects to the loom white wire (terminal
M) on the small round plug behind the airbox that goes
through to the dash. The connection by the aircon pump
is only a bullet/crimp and can fail easily; mine had
been cut under a tie-wrap in the loom.
There should be a supply on the white loom wire to the
connector when aircon selected if not see below
Thro POD 5. menu.
Fan is 0-100% dependant where knob is
Flap is 0-100%dependant where knob is (nothing to do
with the zero in POD 8 menu).
CL= Clutch 'off' - air con pump signal off, should
change as soon as you press to get blue lamp. If this
fuses check the wiring to the clutch as known to fail
due to wire insulation getting chaffed by the back of
the pump as the wire goes through the unused mounting
PR= 'on'- system pressure charged up/healthy and is
reliant on the signal from the trinary switch (three set
points HP28 MP17 LP2) on right hand side by VIN plate on
photo. If connector loose/pulled off and not seeing the
signal, will give the reading PR=off. and run the fans
should always be 'on'
This has a copper capillary wire sitting in the footwell
above the battery box top. Not sure what this does but
mine is set to maximum, be careful with the capillary
wire. I guess you could just link this out if it failed.
If switched off or has no continuity this cuts the
supply to the aircon pump clutch.
Refrigerant needed approx 725g-800g and 60cc of Pag46
Expansion valve is here, look like a bit of hammer
rash was required to make it seat!?! the drain is routed
through the battery box.
The Sagaris has a
on the n/s to separate the hot air from the radiator
that the early T350 and Tam's don't, seems very easy to
replicate and fit. The heater fan air intake is under
the light and simply goes between the inner and outer
wing to the heater intake; so if the panels not there it
brings in hot air from the rads. Keep the intake clear
of flies too.
As a temporary measure if the dividing panel is not
fitted and flap zero not set up; and the dash &
footwell vents are
leaking hot air when cold is selected or the vent slats
are dislodged slide to one side to take spring leg out,
take out and press oval to
get slats back in
and working. (cover with cling film from the back).
Located on the underside of the passenger footwell, this may overheat (for the fan and flap) and reduce the
cold air flow during long journeys. The connection plug
is known to be undersized, overheat and the output
capacitor can blow
In an attempt to rectify to keep the controller cool
I have fitted mine
glove box in the cold air section, but still not
certain this is a fix, but certainly had no issues since
motor seems to be reliable, but some folks have
experienced, poor starting when hot. Could be due to a
poor earth cable. I am not sure why
it can fail but to replace its airbox
off. Its off a 5series BMW, part numbers- Bosch 0 001
108 063, BMW 1 312 104 8.
- Fault codes;
regardless whether a sensor is faulty, disconnected or a
wires in the loom is severed (sometimes, under the cable
ties) various codes are displayed.
Initially check that the plugs are connected to the
sensors, before trying a new senor; take the
air box off and check the wires for continuity, (see
the plug detail below). If any replacement wires are
required make sure you use a high temperature type.
Dash pod display & fault
POD menu5. Air-con status information screen
POD menu 8. Factory RPM & MPH Needle zero Aircon
heater flap zero
Despite what the manual says the screen does not return to
your last selection after an ignition off.
The clock relies on a small cell battery fitted in the
To remove the POD there are
two socket button
head screws on the underside of the dash by the heater
and light switches. Lower and pull out the steering wheel
on its adjustment. Let the
POD fall towards the
steering wheel, undo the four
ribbon cables on the back.
The heater switch
and the light
Then take the POD out of the car and remove the
five screws in the back to
release from the binnacle.
When the POD has been removed I found
that there were a few gaps in the dashboard allowing
the heater hot air into this area, which I sealed up and
foil insulated. I also put a
neoprene sponge seal
around the join to the main dash. The
loom to ribbon connector on mine was loose from its
Velcro pad, so I firmly fixed this. Once the
POD is out of the way I tied the wiring loom back with
a few more tie wraps.
My POD cooling fan was making a bit of noise at times
so I checked and found the mounting screws had worked
loose and one was without it's nut. The drives are
noisy too, and need a careful spot of lubrication.
Display; I've not needed to touch this but there's a
good pdf from 'Konrad' about this
replace the display.
- Tyres; Sagaris standard
- Front/Rear 24psi road/track use for Goodyear F1's, Toyo
R888's and Dunlop SP Super Sport Race
- Standard 18" spider rim width is 8.5". 4
1/2" PCD 5 studs
Offset for the front is 42mm and rear is 33mm
- Wheel stud/nut size is 1/2" UNF torque to 76-85lbft
- Rollcage; The roll cage is
bolted to the chassis rails within the door A post at the
front, at the B post the font tube is bolted to the chassis
with the hoop/rear stay glassed into the rear wheel arch. The
seat belt mount is a 7/16"UNF tapped round bar about 50mm long that
goes through the hoop and welded front and back.
- Reliability- Black
exhaust cans: If one
is sooty and the other is not the most likely answer to be
that one of the lambda sensors is not working properly, poor
alignment of throttle pots or too little exhaust valve
The front three and back three cylinders are run from
A duff sensor will lead to over fuelling and soot on the
relevant exhaust can. The ECU should over fuel by default to
avoid engine damage from lean running and possible
pinking/detonation. If the No.36 circuit fuse has gone and
the power steering is not working the
Lambdas may not be either.
Too much oil in the dry sump system should not be a problem
unless it is far too much affecting both exhausts.
If both cans are sooty it could be the oil type being used;
if its too thin you get excessive usage. In my
experience 0w-40 is too thin,5w-40 seems best all-round.
Some dealers use 15w-50, which is OK also and good for heavy
track day. Could also be if the bores are glazed( a sign of
too sympathetic running in?) Also oval valve guides are
common place oil leakage paths. Excessive oil consumption may
destroy the catalyst if not addressed.
washer/wipers; The complete assembly is made by
The Matador Company in
- The wiper blades are 450mm on the drivers side and 480mm
on the passenger and arms are different each side.
- To stop the washers dribbling when you throw
the car around a bit; fit an anti siphon check valve in both
the supply line and the nearside supply at the joining
connector. Mine came off and Audi A8 wash system part
no.113 955 975 C, but anything similar will do.
- To tidy the route the washer supply tubes take, bring inside the wing and out next to the map sensor and wiper
power supply, then you can get rid of all he cable
ties along the chassis- also move the oil sender wiring from
the chassis at the same time and onto the engine harness.