TVR Sagaris Pages- Tuscan Tamora T350- Speed Six Engine

                                                                                        

   Sagaris Rock 

This is a data collection page for the TVR Sagaris by Graham Varley.

It includes  help on maintenance and fault finding for the TVR Sagaris, T350 and Tamora, and is useful for the Tuscan and Speed Six Cerbera .

This is not a commercial venture and all information is provided without liability.

I have  a  passion for refining things and have  done the work to my car listed on this page and thought it worth while documenting.

All photos are of my car unless noted otherwise.  Any contributions, advice on errors, credits, and additional information is appreciated.

All my servicing work is done to a meticulously high standard by STR8-SIX. I consider anything I do myself as additional work and never miss any essential dealer servicing. Hand fettled and fussed with by myself, blueprinted and built by Jason at STR8-SIX,  4.3litre speed six

  I complied the ' Speed Six Sagaris Workshop Manual and Parts List' with 450 pages also now Know as the

'Speed Six Bible'

Professional Quality Publication- Sorry now Sold out - try ebay or Pistonheads

SAGARIS PAGES HELP


Click to view the picture links in blue. Additional info is on the photos if you mouse over.

Photos bordered in blue click to enlarge

The Purple links are to places in this page

CONTENTS OF THIS WEB PAGE

Body Brakes Chassis
Clutch

 

Cooling System Differential & Gearbox
Electrics Engine

 

Exhaust

 

Fuel System Heating & Ventilation

 

Instruments
Servicing Suspension Steering

Wheels & Tyres

 

Miscellaneous

Useful links

TVR Car Club Link

     'Sagaris workshop manual info'

         

                   'Str8-SIX'

                  Racing Green

SAGARIS INFORMATION

 
  • Rattles;   The bonnet  and service bonnet on later cars without the rubber are generally OK, just add a few bits of adhesive backed neoprene sponge on the contact points to stop any rattles and lateral movement. Tighten all the louver bolts  on the bonnet and fit extra washers if required to firm up the louvers. The later cars also have plastic 'tophat' sleeves fitted to the main bonnet to bush down the size; they can fall out and the service bonnet rattles, I have made some tighter fitting replacements. On some cars the back two pins on the service bonnet are short and don't engage enough, they should be a good 16mm or long so, if not replace /modify. If the main bonnet comes undone on its quarter turn fasteners you can file a small groove on the underside to stop the locking pin turning or simply wrap with a bit of duct tape.
  • The tailgate lock has a lobe on it that can be adjusted to pull down the glass to stop the rattles, also sleeve with a bit of pvc tube. The hinges at the top can also rattle loose , the black covers have the capscrew that holds them like the one on the body. The foam spare tyre can rattle up & down in the compartment; use some Velcro or cloth on it to stop the rattles.   Make sure the load cover tonneaux fasters are screwed home so not to rattle against the rear screen.
  • Knocking from the front suspension can be the anti roll bar drop links, or the ball joints. They are relatively cheap to replace by a main dealer.
  • Luggage Cover; removal is a bit of a pain, if you do this think about removing the centre console at the same time if you need to do any work like the reverse switch, gear stick heat-brake etc.
  • Wheel arch & sill black stuff
  • The original paint system is not so good, it's white spirit based, so if you try to clean off any tar on the sills the whole lot will rub off. In the wheel arches the finish is similar hand bush painted, primed and black sprayed; It is likely that the paint falls off in big sheets. To make it smooth and easy to clean: Remove all access covers. Clean entire area of loose paint and clean using white spirit; carefully mask body paintwork, using tetroseal or similar black under body seal apply very  light coats to build thickness until smooth finish( may take a few days to get it harden off) then with a satin/gloss black paint over. This gives a great finish, but the result is in the preparation. It is really good on the rear diffuser/apron; it stops stones getting stuck in the fibreglass and you can clean it with a sponge easily. The rear arch above the exhaust looks great too without stone chips!
  •  Sills wipe off paint with white spirit, mask off and satin black spray paint chassis side only if you want. Clean and dry the sill, then and stick on black gloss coach lining tape 20mm wide for a sharp finish. Do the same between the splitters  to protect the nose.
  • Brakes; Front pad change is easy as long as you have a drift tool to push out the pad securing pins.                                                                                           Made by AP Racing of Coventry, the front Callipers are TVR logo'd and a  CP6600D55. A full detail drawing of the calliper is here. Disc 322mm dia x 30mm (28mm min). Standard factory AP pad compound is Ferrodo3432F; can be ferrodo  FRP3083 in DS2500 road compound, which a pad drawing is here, available from Circuit Supplies. Alternatively For Race use only Mintex F4R compound (2207F4R16.00) available from Hexham Horseless Carriages
     
  • Rear Callipers; Are the same Griff thro-Sagaris using the Ford cosworth sierra pads. You need a piston wind back tool to make the job easy; and only need to remove one bolt and swivel the calliper to remove the pads; use some copper slip on the back faces to stop them squealing. The Ford pads are OK fo rroad use but will only last one trackday.  Standard Ferrodo compound FER3432F, TVR part no.J0447-  Full part number CP3915-16-3432F ,  DS2500 compound is also an option.
  • Disc's ; to keep them looking good and stop rusty water getting on the wheels just after you cleaned the car ; try sand blasting down the edge to the fins and the centre and not the braking surface area, then give a few coats of spray paint with a 'UHT sperex satin black' or PTFE paint as used on the callipers; make sure you use copper slip when re-fitting the disc's to the hub.
  • Brake/clutch fluid; Standard DOT4
  • Jacking points I do same as my dealer and jack on the 4 corner chassis/body tub screws with a thrust pad fitted to distribute the load
  • Painting My chassis is an off white/grey and had heavy overspray in the wheel arches and on the chassis. I cleaned this back using cutting polish etc. To touch up stone chips I matched the colour using 'smoothrite' ,mixing the colour to the correct shade, grey with white. (about 15% white on mine) But grey is very close so just a dab of white is needed. I also used 40mm white coach lining tape to put on the tubes in front and behind the wheels to stop stone chips to the chassis  rails, replacing it when worn. In Winter 2009 I decided to replace all the suspension bushes as most appeared torn. I ended up re-welding all of the suspension fabrications and finish with a high specification zinc power coat and finish colour RAL7038, which I understand was one of the colours(they used many) used by TVR.
  • Clutch; The tension on the diaphragm spring fingers or the butterfly springs seemed to reduce at about 3-4,000 miles on mine, and drag experienced when changing through the box and especially to reverse, even when selecting 4th prior.  The  slave cylinder also leaked at 2k miles.  After this then 1st and 2nd start to get difficult followed by 3rd, then its time to rectify before it lets you down. I chose to sort the lot out all in one go rather than re-visit; to an improved after market  high spec assembly complete with a lightweight slave  from Clevor-Trevor. Once the gearbox was out, I found that the friction material was pretty much without wear, but found signs of heat burnishing on the flywheel and clutch which were lapped back. The slave bearing was running too freely, dry and noisy. On examination the clutch fingers were intact but heavily worn and the yolke/fork was damaged internally, the butterfly springs had worn into the cast flywheel fitted by TVR resulting in insufficient movement.   The replacement diaphragm spring is great with extra contact area especially on the raceproved clutch fingers which are also induction hardened to stop future wear.  My view it is unlikely that the clutch  plate has failed, but the diaphragm spring, butterfly springs and thrust bearing have been insufficient in design. It appears recently, since july 2008 that the original AP racing clutches have had the issues resolved and are again more reliable.  I have had failures on the reconditioned race  proved clutches and would not recommend the reconditioned ones unless the posts and star washers are replaced with new, as there are prone to bursting off the pillars and cause immediate dragging.
  • Coolant hoses; the coolant hose from the centre round alum swirl pot to the o/s steel pipe that goes to radiator can wear through on the power steering hose connector. Check all the hoses for interfering with each other around here, and if the oil reservoir does not sit in its carrier. ACT Products have made a modified Silicon hose set for me that no longer interfere. The expansion tank cap is from VW Golf Mk1/2, and system runs at approx 15psi.     
  • Fan Temperature cut in; I found the key to this is make sure the engine has no air in the system; the area around the Water temp sensor at the back of the engine behind the airbox. To efficiently fill the radiator system ideally be purged filled from the bled points, or  the car needs to be jacked up at the front to get all the air out so the ECU water temp sensor at the back of the engine (on the left from airbox side) for the ECU to work  correctly. There are two lower bleeds either side of the radiator inlet /outlet.
  • To check the fan works and the wiring OK unplug the sensor and both fans will run by default at any temperature with the ignition on.
    Offside fan should cut in first at about 91-92degC.  nearside at about 96-98degC.(TVR Power have an alternative EPROM that reduces this to 88degC)
  • To over-ride the standard fan settings you can wire a  switch circuit into the the fuse panel relays for LH & RH fans
  • The dash POD menu temperature is not always the same/accurate as it comes from the other sensor at the front of engine and is prone to air locks and unstable POD readings.
  • The fans run by default if there is a problem with the ECU sensor or the aircon trinary switch.
  • Gearbox & Final Drive Differential; T5 Borg Warner/Tremec  Gearbox Fluid 1.4 litre ATFQ3;       Diff with Hydratrak Fluid 1.7 litre EPW80-140
  •  Three different diff ratios.
  • 3.46:1- fitted to most cars; some people report that its too higher geared with this one if fitted with a CR box.
  • 3.73:1 fitted to press cars and some late 06 cars with DANA Hydratrak TVR Part No.R0662 from Dana Spicer Australia PTY Ltd  (mine has this with standard box and I am pleased with performance)
  • 3.9:1- fitted to a few with close ratio gearbox, (with a standard box may give the engine an early retirement if you are rev happy!)
  • The Hydratrack Final drive diff with GKN/BTR seems fairly good.
  • Ratio vs speed table.  Click the table to see the tables I have pre-populated with SagarisT350 Tamora Tuscan  info
  • Hot Gear Stick ; Heat Brake; To remove the gear stick to replace with a none heat conducting one  follow the reverse switch procedure first. Then carefully undo the allen key screw on the rear face, the pull and rotate back and forth to pull the stick complete with rubber mounting away from the gear box, be careful not to loose the rubber spacer fitted on top of the gearbox remote stub within. Once the gear stick is out it can be removed by holding the socket screw on the underside and screwing the stick off the rubber. Gearbox stub shaft is here. To fit the new gear stick, try it first to see that it lines up correctly with the reverse light striker, then assemble with a loctite stud lock before re fitting. Make sure the reverse light switch  works correctly before putting the gaiter back on.

    Fuse and relay panel; The control fuse and relay panel is located on the underside of the drivers foot well. Additional larger fuses are also on the wiring to the battery and  alternator, and a loom mounted relay for the  power steering. The owners handbook does not fully detail what all the fuses are for. the extract from the manual is here:-

    ◄Fuse 42                                                                                                                                                                       Fuse 16►           

    Fuse and relay panel, photo from sag manual

      1-15▲ 

    Alternator not charging battery;  there is no dash pod warning, so its a good idea to customise your display to  show the battery charge level, if it drops below 11.9volts you have about 15miles range without lights and air-con until it stops at 8volts. If you are aware that this is the case and you need to drive the car to get to a garage; remove the power steering relay or fuse 36, which will reduce the drain on the battery.  The fuse is 100 amp strip type and under the air box on top of the  starter motor, but worth changing it to 120Amp if it fails.                                                                                       

    Battery deadMain fuse in passenger foot well is  80 amp strip fuse behind the panel, its the black plastic rectangular fuse holder with black tape around it. The battery is an '036 round post' on mine (with the +ve to the left of the car) and can be charged from underneath the car through the Anderson plug. When replacing the battery make sure you attach the positive first to avoid damaging the ECU. I've fitted a charging lead from the battery terminals into the passenger footwell for easy use of an airflow charger, which I use if the cars not moving for 3-4 weeks. I had a  set of 25mm heavy duty charging leads made with the anderson plug fitted. You can get these from Steve Heath ready made up.

    Battery Location; Battery box view internals

    Front Headlamp -Inner Wheel arch access panels; N/S-Battery access, front lightsO/S-Front lights, indicator & nose loom connection. These are made from black gel coat fibre glass and fitted with sealant then screwed in position and under sealed over. I have removed all the sealant added extra fixing screws and fitted with neoprene sponge seal, making a good seal and easy for future maintenance and a luvelly looking wheel arch with stainless screws of course! I cleaned mine to look like this.

    Brake & reverse lights If the brake lights are not working and the reverse light is, its likely to be the switch on the pedal box unless both bulbs have fused. Check and replace the fuse, then try the brake lights first and keep them on for a while, if this is OK select reverse gear, if the fuse blows and then the  brake lights don't work the reverse switch is faulty.  

    To change the brake/rear indicator bulbs; remove the two screws on the top of the trim rail that hold the luggage cover, and the securing screws under the carpet to manipulate the trim rail off, peel the carpet back and the bulb holders are there. The reverse and fog light are accessed via the  tyre inflator stowage compartment and made by Hella.

    Reverse switch (TVR Part) removal or adjustment is a big job; you get at it from the top. Ideally take the boot luggage cover/roller blind by removing the four nuts with large washers on horizontal bit forward of rear wheel arch. Alternatively the console can be manipulated forward and sprung out with a bit of force.

    First remove the gear knob by turning the  ferrule clockwise with rubber oil filter or jam jar lid removal strap tool, undo 19mm lock nut clockwise to remove gear knob. Remove the  hand brake lever grip, sliding the leather back, use an allen key and slide off. Loosen the centre console two screws at the front. (manipulate forward or take the roller blind off as above ). Lift up to reveal  the sub-console, remove the three 10mm nuts underneath wrestle to get the console off selecting appropriate gear and handbrake position. Move the mirror ECU (part no.ME0846), the splice relay and the alarm sensors to one side, then remove the gaiter cover 6  screws, then the glued down gear stick gaiter to reveal the switch, then a use 24 and 22mm spanner to remove the switch. Careful not to damage the loom wires to the switch.

    Check  the tightness of the gear stick while your there with an allen key (screw is on rear face) as they can come loose, and affect the reverse light correct operation. You might need to rotate the gear stick to get the new switch operating, but try it a few times making sure it only works in reverse and not 5th as well.    To reassemble you will need some loctite PS 598 or similar to reseal to gaiter to the body, and a bit of aluminium foil tape is useful. If that's all too much you can disconnect the switch, by flicking the connector off from under the car, at least you will have the brake lights.          

    Check the boot to the gearbox is OK and without tears whilst its all apart; and consider making a heat sink barrier for the gearstick and  insulate the gaiter with some foil fire blanket to reduce cockpit heat.  I have also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat transfer to the cabin whilst changing the and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick out of a mat used for soldering.

    If you've got the gearbox out the reverse switch  looks like this, but it cannot be set it up from underneath.

    Front Lights; Main & Dip H7 Hella;  N/S  Accessed via wheel arch underside. Remove wheel for access. O/S possible access via service main bonnet to adjust alignment ,but for bulb change go via inner wheel arch access panelIndicator on the O/S is accessed via the access panel. If lights flickering could be main fuse on way out. 

    Switches; The heater switch is here. The light switch is here. The window and door control is here.

    Speedo Sensor Here we go

    Speedo Sensor- Adjustment/Removal/replacement (sag v similar all T cars)
    Part no. M1889
    If replacement required use a dealer as they will have it done in a jiffy

    To gain access to the Speedo Sensor the car ideally needs to be on a ramp. (jack possibly)
    Remove the left NS rear wheel. to see the sensor

    The sensor can be seen at the right of the drive shaft, horizontal to the toothed diff output.

    View from underneath the car, (exhausts removed on photo)

    Clean with WD40 set to 1mm gap or less

    The sensor is best left, complete on the bracket if removed.

    View from rear

    Alternatively, remove locknuts, follow the blue cable through to the rear inner wheel arch where it enters the body.

    The hatch trim top rail and then the left NS trim panel needs to be removed.

    Unplug in the inner wheel arch and prise out the wires and sheath from the connector block.

    Pull the new sensor wire through, without cutting back the wire.
    Remake the connector and re fit the sensor and bracket.
    Alternatively cut off at 200mm long from plug then cut back new by 200mm and join with soldered heatshrink joint or sealed connector block.

    Check with the ignition on the speedo needle reads zero.
    If the needle requires adjustment, select factory settings on POD menu 8; select the mph zero and adjust up or down until the needle is set and save the changes.
     

    Fault Finding: Most electrical faults , not working are due to bad connections in the plugs or to the chassis. There are few earth points, one on right side front by the engine mount, chassis to engine, passenger footwell, battery box, then the main one if the lights flicker after checking the 80 & 100amp fuse is the chassis ground at right front just below the steel radiator pipe. Remove these wire wool clean and assemble with a contact grease. 

    Engine wiring loom- Plugs

    Following an unsolved oil temp sensor fault, in the process of rectifying,  recorded the wire colours etc which is in the manual.

    The wiring harness/looms are manufactured by Associated Bonded Cables Ltd. There are several sections, some plug/socket on the bulkheads.

      Main Engine Bulkhead Plug all the wire ID's are in the manual


    Small auxiliary plug on the engine bulkhead- Only  connects the Lambdas on the Sagaris and can foul with the airbox etc.

     

    Nose wiring Loom; The loom for the front of the car part no M1798 comes through a plug connection at the bulkhead wall in the footwell accessed through the O/S inner wheel arch access panel. The loom has the connector for front fog lights which is fully operational and taped up, their is also on the o/s light side a permanent live supply taped back to the loom. My loom had worn through where the it rests on the fibre glass inner wheel arch; I've since repaired it and covered with a plastic armour sheath to stop abrasion.

    Window Electrics; The push buttons can some times stick; you can get at the  passenger side if you take the glove box out. The drivers side is more difficult as the stereo housing needs to come out then, undo three small nylocs at the back and the remove the ribbon cable.

     

  • Doors; The door lock mechanism is from the Ford transit.

    The micro-switch that puts the window up is inside the pillar lock mechanism.  I think this works with a window position sensor/encoder.   

    If the micro switch is set too far to the door edge the windows can come up before the door has closed. To remove/check you need to unscrew the 3 very small screws that hold the chromed cover on. Once the cover is off you can remove the lock mechanism via the two capscrews.

    Chances are the micro-switch lever has been dislodged or fallen off, be careful as you loosen the switch that it doesn't fall down inside the body. It's possible that they are rusted. Think they are a 'Burgess'  item.

    There is a wiring loom connector behind the door card, If they get a load of water in over a period of time the door release can open on its own!

    To remove the door card; open the door and you will see three clear plastic plugs on the door underside, carefully remove them (get some replacements before you start) 10mm spanner

    Door hinges tighten capscrew  behind carpet top two on photo, its fairly easy once you  have found the capscrews, then if you need shims the hinges stay put and slide in between. Check the top hinge bolt in the door jam with a 17mm spanner.

  • Oil filter replacement just follow the above air box removal procedure. Use a coopers Z501.

    Oil Level is best checked after stopping the engine when hot. Do not over fill when cold to maximum; this is likely to blow oil into the air box. Approx 1 litre between Max & Min, Oil type can vary but fully synthetic Shell or Carlube 5w-40 seems best all-round. I use 5w-40, which is great. This is my method of checking before taking the car out when COLD; with car on dead flat surface when the oil is just on the stick  or just over the MIN this gives  approx 3/4 of MAX. My way to check HOT level remove bonnet with rag ready switch off engine and dip. High level filling can force the oil out into the air box when trackdaying

    Oil Pressure When I first had delivery of my car and when very hot, the oil warning would come on down at 4 psi at idle. There is various theory's on this but I  sorted mine by having a more healthy engine  idle when hot of 900-950rpm(the car should idle from cold on its own). Loads of factors on this one like oil viscosity vs temperature etc.  With fresh Mobil 1 5W/40 mine runs on idle ;- 20deg 65 psi , 30deg 50psi, 40degC 35psi,  65degC 25psi.The help increase the life of the engine from frequent cold starts I have have a tube heater that I  push under the car which is on a timer when the cars being used, and purge oil into the engine after lay-up through the oil sensor hose. For normal use semi-syn 5-40 is now considered the best compomise.

    Remove the air box by undoing the two allen head bolts on the carburettors and three toggles,  the two on the o/s and one on the other hidden between the box and  inlet port.  Cable ties maybe fitted to the o/s  toggles to stop them springing open.                                                                                                 Take the oil tank breather hose and small bore vacuum hose off the front top, and the air temp sensor cable off the box, then manipulate forward, remove the small bore pipe at the back of the box then lift out, then remove the filter.  To remove the bottom half of the air box, undo the front bolt and two rear ones and lift out. It worth fitting some larger section viton BS0545-30 'O'  rings to the throttle bodies to get a better fit with the air box and stop the engine getting blown with breather oil mist.

    The alternator main fuse is in a black plastic rectangular fuse holder (with a cable tie wrap around it) on the red cable between the starter motor and the alternator

    After replacing the 100amp strip fuse and charging/starting making sure the the battery is charging on the the display and check the lights do not draw the power before putting the box back on. A warning ' EFI fault 4'  will appear on the display: this is because the air temp sensor is not connected  and will not re-appear once re-connected later.

    Engine Idle;  This is not a fix for a lack of a service. It is just an interim measure , and is no substitute for a diagnostic reset. If the car has just been serviced it should always idle from cold no problem, but can reduce after 1000 miles. Best thing is get the diagnostics reset between services.

    Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes  and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.

    Rev limiter- lamps are factory set but can be adjusted through POD settings menu 2. There seems to be differing factory physical hard limiter settings from 6800 to 7800rpm. When cold below 40deg C  the red change lamps will come in at 4000rpm, but also will if the oil temp sensor is U/S or the wiring loom is damaged.

    Throttle cable TVR part; replacement; follow the above air box removal procedure , then remove the R clip and pin from the cable end, remove the clevis and undo the locknuts to with draw from bracket. Inside on the pedal box remove the aluminium cover screws, keeping the locknuts on the clutch and throttle pedal in place. Rotate the knuckle to release the cable & spring. Re-fit the pedal end first. Bend the tab that holds the cable at the pedal end up by about 3mm to stop the cable from braking again.

     

  • Tappets; Adjustment

    Remove the the three capscrews from the inset cover, remove the sealant ; clean up as you go, then remove the sparkplugs and then the camshaft cover.  Blank the spark plug holes so nothing can be dropped into the bore. Ensure you also blank the oil way on the exhaust side at the end of the cam at the back of the engine to stop any bits or shims dropping into the engine.
     
  • Cam inset cover To access the plugs and leads - Use black loctite RTV sealant loctite 598 to re seal.
  • Cam Cover- Remove to access the cams and top of timing chain, but engine out to remove chains
  • Coil Plugs & leads; Coil pack is from the V6 Vauxhall senator- and is located above the starter motor and under the airbox; the markings on the coil pack do not correspond directly with the leads (6 and 4 reversed ). Failure of the coil pack  can cause the car to hesitate under load/harder acceleration. Looking at inlet side the lead connection layout is like this.
  • 1 3 5
  • 6 4 2                                                       
  • Engine mounts; These do fracture frequently and should be checked at service intervals, there are cheap and dealer will take max 1 hour but DIY is  5-6 hours. Don't leave them too long as the engine tilts over and pulls the prop engagement out of the gearbox , twists the diff mounts.
  • Exhaust Cats  have a 129.5mm dia front pipe mating flange with alternatives to the rear and can be 2.125" , 2.25"n/ bore. One cat melted on mine,  I wasn't keen but fitted de-cat pipes to get the car back on the road and found a possible slight torque increase. Watch the noise levels mine was 100dB (A) @4500rpm. removing the cats increased it to 105+dbA .I have the smaller pipes so it was not as loud as if the 2.25" are fitted. Removing the back box alone will give about 112dbA  instant trackday fail. The exhaust can be cleaned using an acid based welders pickle paste to clean all the heat tarnishing.                                                  
  • Along with ACT and JP exhausts I developed a dual purpose can 5 1/2" OD with shark nose end fully packed can, but also had it sleeved for maximum performance. An insert tail end was also manufactured to bring it down below 95dBA
  • Exhaust removal; Remove rear diffuser, and strengthening plates from chassis, best to keep in one piece to front of cats.
  • Parts removed and the exhaust mounts.
  • The front three cylinders 1,2 ,3 go to the NS,  the back three 4,5,6 to the OS exhaust, they don't share any sections, until they go into the standard back box where they join. Some after market box boxes can have a dividing panel making them totally separate.
  • The exhaust cans should be solid in the back box if waggled, if not; use a 10mm ring spanner reach under the can between the diffuser; loosen and push the can back home, then to tighten the clamp so there is no movement at all.
    If the whole lot moves including the back box and the other can, its likely the weld on the centre mount will have fractured. You can re-weld but make sure its preheated when its done or it will fracture again. The standard rubber mounts seem to be OK
  • Lambda Sensors; 4 wire
    The front three 1,2,3 are LAMBDA1, harness cable black/red/white/yellow (NS exhaust can)
    back three cylinders4,5,6 LAMBDA2 harness cable black/red/white/blue (OS exhaust can).

    A duff sensor will lead to over fuelling and soot on the relevant exhaust can.
    If not sorted the overfuel may destroy the catalysts

    On Lambda failure the ECU should over fuel by default to avoid engine damage from lean running and possible pinking/detonation.
    If the No.36 circuit fuse has gone and the power steering is not working the Lambdas may not be either.

    A factory bulletin was issued in December 2005 advising that 'all vehicles' built May to November 2005 had a lambda wiring issue, so check this out with a knowledgeable TVR specialist.

    Fuelling Issues:  I understand the submerged fuel pump internal connection hoses  can degrade on early models and can give intermittent faults. The bolts that hold fuel pump head can come loose and leak causing fuel smell in the cabin if the access cover is not fully sealed. The baffle and pump in the fuel tank  are on the right side so fast long right hand bends on low fuel (12-18litre) can cause hesitation/detonation. Fuel smells can also come from the fuel roll over valve.

    Fuel pump; The fuel pump is located on the right hand side of the tank which is accessed under the  boot carpet via a sealed access cover. The cover could be secured by self tapping screws through the body or fixed with M5 x 12 pan head screws to the bonded brass nut-inserts. The pump can be withdrawn through the access hole. The pump mounting flange is held to the fuel tank with hex screws with individual sealing collars for each screw and also a full area rubber gasket. to remove cut the tie wrap from the wiring loom before pulling the connector, then pull the pump carefully up being careful not to snag the internal hoses and float level. Check the pumps own filter and remove debris. With no fuel my sensor reads 1litre.

    Fuel tank removal; Remove the majority of the fuel first, then rear diffuser and the exhausts. Remove the access cover, undo and remove the fixing pins for the fuel pump. Remove the boot hatch trim rail and nearside panel to reveal the fuel filler hose and undo. Remove the access cover and any sealant to allow the fuel tank to be lowered out. Hold the weight of the fuel tank, then carefully remove the M10 x 35  button head screws from the chassis bracket. Then take the weight and rotate the fuel tank   front down and sideways to release the filler hose. That's the fuel tank out and ready to clean out the debris. Nice little signature!  Thought it worthwhile to polish off the factory overspray back to the black gel coat before re-fitting the fuel tank. Also fitted the access cover with socket screws how it was really intended

    Fuel rail; The spacers on the fuel rail are made of steel and transmit too much heat from the engine . I have re-made 1.5mm longer to suit the Sagaris injectors, insulating washers may help keep the rail temperature down.

    The fuel injectors are identified  as Blue Ring and generally a single orifice.

    Air con & Heater fan; Heater-Fuse 28- 20Amp

    Aircon is a bit hit and miss; but should be like an ice box and too cold on full.

    I've done the following, with the Sagaris, can't be sure it'll work for others:-

    ON POD 8 menu the flap zero is critical to whether the car cooks or not regardless if you have air-con or not!. and  you should NOT get any heater hot air in the cabin when cold selected.

    The air duct in the lower dash is for the cold only. The screen and footwell vents should only go hot when selected with or without air-con, but they will warm a little in traffic without the air-con on, but never get silly hot.

    I spent loads of time on it but it works a dream now; to check this:-

    I selected cold and maximum fan and adjusted the zero position until nearly all the airflow was to the lower dash vents only. My flap setting was 0, but now 26 (TVR factory setting was 16). Remember to save the settings and switch ignition off and check when switched on again.

    It will take some time to set up but, if this doesn't work there is a chance the flap may have come loose off the motor, or the flap motor failed. It's in the gasketed box behind the air-con expansion valve/pipes. Usually get a Flap fault-126 warning if faulty, but I've not needed to get in there yet.

    I removed the carpet on footwell underside; I ran the heater fan to max and found that there was a big gap between the bulkhead and the air duct that goes to the dash, I sealed it up with some expanding neoprene sponge, and also the back of the shelf under the radio and to its left from the footwell, improving the cold air flow to the drivers vent loads. Also known that ventilation connection hoses can be missing.

    I further improved the heat insulation by taking out the glove box and sealing it better and also creating a barrier with aluminium foil tape between the upper dash and the lower to reduce/stop heat transfer when the car warms up. (to take out remove two screws, lift front edge and roll upwards and back)

    I also insulated the gearbox/prop tunnel to stop heat soak to the cabin whilst changing the reverse switch and made a additional gaiter for the gear stick, and plugged the hot air leaks that come from behind the POD.

    The transferred heat on the gear knob  can be rectified by changing the aluminium gear stick to a Tufnell or similar like wise with the hand brake.

    Heater settings ON POD 5 menu. When cold and the engine and aircon is not running all the sensors should be about the same temperature; The hot air and cold air sensors were dangling from the loom on mine, you can find out which is which by un plugging.

    I fitted the cold air sensor into the hole that was taped over, then screwed the hot one into the brass insert on the bulkhead. I think they had problems with them at the factory so may not have fitted them, but when you do fit them and the cars up to temperature you may get a fault code 137 when it gets too hot; but this is fixed with correct flap zero setup.

    The ambient air temp is the one on the o/s of the rad that pokes through to the splitter/inner wing, and gets silly readings as the car slows in heat(and also wind chill) you can improve this by using a nylon nut (rather than steel) and a fibre insulating washer; and move to the other side of the splitter into the free air flow to the brakes.

    With the blue lamp on the aircon (CL) clutch is operated you should here it click and read 'on' on the POD status screen; The aircon pump clutch supply is connected to the red wire you can just see in the pic below, Its fuse no.28 20Amp; The red wire connects to the loom white wire (terminal M) on the small round plug behind the airbox that goes through to the dash. The connection by the aircon pump is only a bullet/crimp and can fail easily; mine had been cut under a tie-wrap in the loom.
    There should be a supply on the white loom wire to the connector when aircon selected if not see below

    Thro POD 5. menu.
    Fan is 0-100% dependant where knob is

    Flap is 0-100%dependant where knob is (nothing to do with the zero in POD 8 menu).

    CL= Clutch 'off' - air con pump signal off, should change as soon as you press to get blue lamp. If this fuses check the wiring to the clutch as known to fail due to wire insulation getting chaffed by the back of the pump as the wire goes through the unused mounting eye.

    PR= 'on'- system pressure charged up/healthy and is reliant on the signal from the trinary switch (three set points HP28 MP17 LP2) on right hand side by VIN plate on photo. If connector loose/pulled off and not seeing the signal, will give the reading PR=off. and run the fans radiator continuously.

    IC= Thermostat- should always be 'on'
    This has a copper capillary wire sitting in the footwell above the battery box top. Not sure what this does but mine is set to maximum, be careful with the capillary wire. I guess you could just link this out if it failed.  If switched off or has no continuity this cuts the supply to the aircon pump clutch.

    Refrigerant needed approx 725g-800g and 60cc of  Pag46 lube oil

    Aircon Expansion valve is here, look like a bit of hammer rash was required to make it seat!?! the drain is routed through the battery box.

    The Sagaris has a dividing panel on the n/s to separate the hot air from the radiator that the early T350 and Tam's don't, seems very easy to replicate and fit. The heater fan air intake is under the light and simply goes between the inner and outer wing to the heater intake; so if the panels not there it brings in hot air from the rads. Keep the intake clear of flies too.

    As a temporary measure if the dividing panel is not fitted and flap zero not set up; and the dash & footwell vents are leaking hot air when cold is selected or the vent slats are dislodged slide to one side to take spring leg out, take out and press oval to get slats back in and working. (cover with cling film from the back).
       
    Heater Controller
    Located on the underside of the passenger footwell, this may overheat (for the fan and flap) and reduce the cold air flow during long journeys. The connection plug is known to be undersized, overheat and the output capacitor can blow
    In an attempt to rectify to keep the controller cool  I have fitted mine behind the glove box in the cold air section, but still not certain this is a fix, but certainly had no issues since relocation.

     

  • Starter Motor; The starter motor seems to be reliable, but some folks have experienced, poor starting when hot. Could be due to a poor earth cable. I am not sure why it can fail but to replace its airbox off. Its off a 5series BMW, part numbers- Bosch 0 001 108 063, BMW 1 312 104 8.

     

  • Fault codes; regardless whether a sensor is faulty, disconnected or a wires in the loom is severed (sometimes, under the cable ties) various codes are displayed. Initially check that the plugs are connected to the sensors, before trying a new senor; take the air box off and check the wires for continuity, (see the plug detail below). If any replacement wires are required make sure you use a high temperature type. 

Dash pod display & fault history codes                                                                                                                                                                      POD menu5. Air-con status information screen                    

POD menu 8. Factory RPM & MPH Needle zero  Aircon heater flap zero                                                                                                                               Despite what the manual says the screen does not return to  your last selection  after an ignition off. 

The clock relies on a small cell battery fitted in the POD board.

To remove the POD there are two socket button head screws on the underside of the dash by the heater and light switches. Lower and pull out the steering wheel on its adjustment. Let the POD fall towards the steering wheel, undo the four ribbon cables on the back. The heater switch and the light switch details.

Then take the POD out of the car  and remove the five screws in the back to release from the binnacle. When the POD has been removed I found that there were a few gaps in the dashboard allowing the heater hot air into this area, which I sealed up and foil insulated.  I also put a neoprene sponge seal around the join to the main dash. The loom to ribbon connector on mine was loose from its Velcro pad, so I firmly fixed this. Once the POD is out of the way I tied the wiring loom back with a few more tie wraps.

My POD cooling fan was making a bit of noise at times so I checked and found the mounting screws had worked loose and one was without it's nut. The drives are noisy too, and need a careful spot of lubrication.

Display; I've not needed to touch this but there's a good pdf from 'Konrad' about this  detailing how to replace the display.

  • Suspension; The Sagaris has the bilstien/TVR developed shockers which are fixed damping but height adjustable. The springs are from Eibach. Rear orange TVR D0884, Front purple TVR C 0959; I've found grounding to be an issue on the Moorlands A roads I drive on, with the nose hitting the ground at moderate speeds. (this issue has improved since fitting Dunlop SSR tyres with a stiffer side wall)  
  • I have increased the spring rates on my Sagaris which offers better all round driving, reducing chances of grounding considerably.
  •  
  • Power steer; Peugeot part; main fuse in battery box with green/yellow feed to relay in engine compartment.

    Likelihood of failure;

    1. Fuse No.36(shared with Lambdas) in drivers panel; This is shared with Lambda heaters this is the feed to the grey relay in the engine compartment.

    2. The main 80 amp flat fuse fuse is in the battery compartment on the n/s behind the wheel. Jack up and remove the two screws and cable tie to remove the cover,  look for the black plastic rectangular fuse holder on the red cable with a black plastic connector in the middle
      remove tape and open cover to check the fuse for continuity.

    3. The supply to the power steer relay has a  connector with a green/yellow control wire from the ECU is in the battery box; open the connector by cutting the cable tie, Check this connector has continuity.

    4. The relay in the engine compartment can be checked whilst you have the battery box open. Put a +ve live supply from the battery to the green wire to the relay. The pump should operate without the ignition on if relay is OK. To replace  the relay push the tabs back with two hands then with the third! pull out the relay. The  pump and relay is from a  Citroen/Peugeot405     Cable colours :-                                                                                                     1 signal green/yellow
      2 -Neg ground/black
      3 +ve supply to relay red (80A fuse)
      5 +ve to power steer pump
       

    5. The steering pump cable from the relay has a connector and can be tested with a suitable heavy duty cable from the battery; 2 +ve 0-ve

     

  • Tracking, Geometry; The car should always feel connected to the road and not light, if its scary to drive at any speed the geometry needs looking at.
  • Front
    Toe 0 - 1.5mm toe in
    Camber -0.5 to -0.75deg

    Rear
    Toe- in 2mm
    Camber negative -1.5deg
  • Tyres; Sagaris standard 255/35/18
  • Front/Rear 24psi road/track use for Goodyear F1's, Toyo R888's and Dunlop SP Super Sport Race
  • Standard 18" spider rim width is 8.5". 4 1/2" PCD 5 studs
    Offset for the front is 42mm and rear is 33mm
  • Wheel stud/nut size is 1/2" UNF torque to 76-85lbft
  • Seats You may find the seats seem to move a bit after they have bedded into the carpet; they are secured on the underside by four nyloc nuts; The seat belt mountings are7/16"UNF and are  fixed to the seats, if twisted the seat has to come out to sort it. The Tuscan style seats  weigh 16kg each! The standard set up is pretty easy to fit a 4 point harness. I have designed a simple but effective harness restraint bar for use with the Tuscan seats

    Cobra manufacture Imola S seats which are complete with the correct sub frame, TVR colour coded and logo'd as required.

  • Rollcage; The roll cage is bolted to the chassis rails within the door A post at the front, at the B post the font tube is bolted to the chassis with the hoop/rear stay glassed into the rear wheel arch. The seat belt mount is a 7/16"UNF tapped round bar about 50mm long that goes through the hoop and welded front and back.
  • Reliability- Black exhaust cans: If one is sooty and the other is not the most likely answer to be that one of the lambda sensors is not working properly, poor alignment of throttle pots or too little exhaust valve clearance.
    The front three and back three cylinders are run from different  lambda sensors.                                                                                                                               A duff sensor will lead to over fuelling and soot on the relevant exhaust can. The ECU should over fuel by default to avoid engine damage from lean running and possible pinking/detonation. If the No.36 circuit fuse has gone and the power steering is not working the Lambdas may not be either.
    Too much oil in the dry sump system should not be a problem unless it is far too much affecting both exhausts.   If both cans are sooty it could be the oil type being used; if its  too thin you get excessive usage. In my experience 0w-40 is too thin,5w-40 seems best all-round. Some dealers use 15w-50, which is OK also and good for heavy track day. Could also be if the bores are glazed( a sign of too sympathetic running in?) Also oval valve guides are common place oil leakage paths. Excessive oil consumption may destroy the catalyst if not addressed.   
  • Windscreen washer/wipers; The complete assembly is made by The Matador Company in Buckingham.
  • The wiper blades are 450mm on the drivers side and 480mm on the passenger and arms are different each side.
  • To stop the washers dribbling when you throw the car around a bit; fit an anti siphon check valve in both the supply line and the nearside supply at the joining connector. Mine came off and Audi A8 wash system part no.113 955 975 C, but anything similar will do.
  • To tidy the route the washer supply tubes take, bring inside the wing and out next to the map sensor and wiper power supply,  then you can get rid of all he cable ties along the chassis- also move the oil sender wiring from the chassis at the same time and onto the engine harness.

 

Rear hub and drive shaft replacement and overhaul

Springs re-powder coated Alumium polished and anodised

                                    Sagraris V spec egine bay

 

Plasma ceramic coated exhaust manifold

                                   ACT JP Sagaris Trackday Cans with road sleeve

                                  ACT Track cans with 95Dba stealth tailpipes fiited

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Development TVR Sonitus

RH  Drive Sagaris R Drive Train

TVR Finite Element Analysis 3D

Rear suspension bush change; photo Sagaris TVR manual

Front suspension photo from TVR Sagaris manual

Airbox and wiring loom removed 100Amp fuse on red wire at back

Reverse light switch repair Sagaris Manual

Reverse switch underside view but cannot adjust from here

Gearbox out view

Front suspension and battery box location to right

Battery type 036 round post and power steering 80Amp fuse and relay feed

Chassis clean and protect with WD40

Sill black coach line tape- get rid of that underseal stuff

Rear suspension

Sagaris manual extract Sump tank removal

tappet shim shown with cam removed

#4 conrod bearing oil starvation

Sagaris power steering relay and oil filler

Pile of speed six bits! Nice and clean and tidy to match the Sag

Sagaris charging anderson plug behind red cap & coach linning sill tape

Scavenge pump

Rear calipers and anti-squeal copper slip

Nearly out!

Engine out through the bottom

Engine out

Re fitted engine Note extra sump drain plug on left

Sagaris pedal box Brake fluid reservoir

Sparco harnesses fitted with modified Tuscan style seats to give better lateral support

Underbody refinishing with stone chip resistant paint

1,3,5 on top row 6,4 2 on bottom not as marked on body of coil

ECU watertemp sensoron under no.5  POD temp under no.2

Sagaris rear lamps from boot

For reverse lights behind tyre foam box

NS front light access

Alarm sensitvity adujstment

Sagaris fuel pump access- check hose suitablity

Gearstick anti vibe bush and relays

The Matador Co. wiper system

 

Front Spring

Aircon pump location

Re-finished brackets and  parts

Sag with ACT Trackday Silencers

DRL temporary fitting

DRL side lamp left normal sidelamp only on right

DRL daylight

Fully Rebuilt suspension brakes and bushes